Upgrading from 2012 to 2017 Chevy Volt

I have been wildly enthusiastic about the Chevy Volt since before it went into production and acquired my 2012 model as soon as I could afford to.  I have been completely thrilled with the car and believe that it is the ideal electric vehicle since it cleverly addresses the "range anxiety" issue with its internal gas powered "range extender" generator that allows you to keep driving at 43mpg once the electric battery has been used up.

My dealer (GoodwinsChevrolet) here in Brunswick, Maine made me an offer I could not refuse which was to trade in my old Volt for a very affordable three-year lease on the all new redesigned 2017 model (base price US$33,170).  They graciously allowed me to park both vehicles side-by-side so I could do a detailed comparison review.  GM have redesigned the vehicle from the ground up, and while there is a strong family resemblance, there are fundamental differences that make for significant improvements in performance, functionality and styling.  Personally, I find the new exterior style lines to be much improved.  The GEN 1 design ran from 2012 through 2016.

Sadly GM have discontinued production of the Volt as of March 2019.

The 2012 was really fun to drive and the new model is even more fun with it's crazy fast acceleration and ground hugging performance.  It is also very comfortable on long trips.

Driving Experience

Overall, the GEN 2 vehicle is 250 pounds lighter which translates into a more nimble feel which dramatically increases the 0 to 30 acceleration feel.  The 0 to 30MPH acceleration time has been reduced from 3.1 to 2.6 seconds while 0 to 60 mph performance has improved from 9 to 8.3 seconds.  From a performance standpoint, the low-end acceleration is quite thrilling, the vehicle burns rubber from a standing start if you floor it even in "normal" mode.  This was not even possible in the GEN 1 design.   But more useful is that the EPA rated range has been extended from a maximum of 37 to 53 miles, and I am hearing that  people are getting a range up in the mid-60s with careful driving.  Using MAX climate control in cold weather, I'm seeing a range in the mid 40's.  For someone like me who does mostly local driving to towns up to 15 miles away, this means I will be using gas much less.  In previous years I have used  between 40 and 60 gallons per year - mostly for longer trips.

 

The Gen 2 is noticeably quieter, road and tire noise is much lower due to quieter tires and an improved transmission that is 15% more efficient.  It also makes a lot less funny little mechanical pump noises because the hydraulic brakes pressurize on demand rather than at randomized intervals and the climate control and charging coolant systems seem to be quieter too.  

One does not notice it as a driver, but they have added an electronically generated "Pedestrian Safety Signal" that activates only under 20 mph to warn nearby pedestrians that the vehicle is running.  It is a peculiar sound that is hard to describe - it's kind of a hissing sound - and it is just noticeable enough to be audible without being annoying.  They have removed the "annunciator" button on the left stalk - when pressed the horn would emit a "bip-bip-bip" sound and I rather liked that feature because it was a pleasant way to advise neighbors that I was sneaking up on them on my quiet country road.

regen on-demand paddle

Something I am just beginning to get use to is the new Regen on Demand™ paddle on the left side of the steering wheel.  While I normally drive in "L" mode to optimize regeneration while slowing ("D" mode completely disables regenerative braking via the accelerator pedal), this paddle adds a whole another layer.  (To be clear for the uninitiated "L" mode is NOT a gear, it simply engages the regenerative braking function). Basically you learn to use it as if it were a brake pedal and the vehicle slows much more dramatically when you pull the paddle towards the steering wheel.  It's difficult to convey the difference in experience, but suffice it to say I am using the paddle in place of braking when coming to a stop as often as possible to gain the regenerated energy and increase driving range.   Incidentally the paddle does engage the brake lights.

This feature is a mixed blessing because it means that the rear disc brakes are almost never used.  I had to replace the rear brake discs on my 2012 Volt after only 40,000 miles because they had rusted to the point where they would not pass inspection.  The dealer's service tech explained that I should get the vehicle up to 50 mph or so on a quiet road, drop it in neutral and brake very hard at least once a week to make sure the disc brakes operate forcefully enough to clean out any rust build up.  I also ride the brake when driving very slowly down my road for the first 100ft and I can hear the brakes getting quieter as I do this as the rust buildup cleans off.

 

Tech details

charging data from my old and new vehicle

In order to charge the larger battery in less time the vehicle is drawing an additional 500 W from my 240 V JuiceBox EV charging station.  A full charge takes a nominal 4.5 hours to top up the 18.4 kWh battery (upgraded from 16 kWh).  Charging from 120 V is expected to take 13 hours at 12 Amps.

 

The new battery has 15% more power while weighing 30lb less due to battery chemistry improvements, an 8% decrease in weight.  Battery technology keeps improving, and the new battery cells are 20% more efficient allowing GM to reduce the number of cells in the battery by 96.

It seems that another way they are getting more power out of the battery is by using more of its capacity.  Based on readings taken from my DashDAQ-XL performance monitor I learned that the GEN 1 utilized from 22% to 87% state of charge, while the GEN 2 uses from 14% to 90% state of charge.  So the new Volt is using 11% more capacity from the battery.

I have also noticed that the GEN 2 draws power from the charging station in frequent brief bursts, presumably to maintain the battery within a safe operating temperature range.  The chart above shows two days of energy from my charging station while temperatures varied from just below freezing  to the mid-40s Fahrenheit.  Those brief spikes represent periods of less than 10 minutes with an energy draw ranging from a few hundred Watts to about 2300 W.

The old 1.4 L gas engine (originally from one of their other models) has been replaced with a new 1.5 L engine.  This allows it to generate 75 kW, a 33% increase over the old 50 kW generator making the engine much more efficient.  This is why the "range extender" mode has increased from an EPA rated 37 mpg to 42 mpg or so.  The new engine can also use regular gas rather than premium which is a nice bonus.  In practice I used to get a nominal 40 mpg in the GEN 1 on long trips, and I'm seeing closer to 43 mpg in the 2017 model.  The engine seems to surge to high RPMs of 4000RPM more often in the Gen2 which is slightly annoying and very noticeable when leaving a stop in city traffic.

The transmission in the Volt is a very complicated affair incorporating planetary gears and clutches to connect the two electric motors (known as the MGA and MGB) and the gas engine to the drive train.  Click here if you really want to know more.  It has been completely redesigned to be 12% more efficient and also noticeably quieter.  In my 2012, I used to notice a slight whirring sound at slow speeds with the window open, and that is no longer as noticeable.

The stock low rolling resistance Goodyear tires from the GEN 1 have been replaced with slightly less efficient Michelin tires with a net reduction in road noise and no noticeable trade-off in performance.  The recommended tire pressure is 36 lb, but I'm inflating them to 38 lb to try and improve efficiency slightly.  My stock 2012 tires wore out after about 30,000 miles which was very disappointing.  I upgraded to Continental low rolling resistance tires that are rated for 70,000 miles, but as they aged in they seemed to become louder and louder to the point where it was almost like I was driving with heavy snow tires.  In a vehicle this quiet you really notice road noise.

Exterior

The funky rubber air dam is scaled down and tucked underneath  in the new model and the front grill looks a lot more attractive.

The rear spoiler is much better integrated into the visual aesthetic.  The original spoiler felt like a cheap plastic add-on and road grime would build up underneath of it.  I also think the taillight design is much more attractive.

The headlight design is a little more attractive.  But the significant improvement is in the quality and brightness of the headlights. 

The GEN 1 used a single relatively dim halogen light with a beam that was not wide enough to light the sides of the road.  Driving on rural blacktops at night was not a good experience.  A mechanical shutter blocked the light for the low-beam.  The 2017 model uses very bright white LEDs with a much wider light pattern and the high-beam adds in a bright (warmer toned) halogen.  Overall, the headlights are a vast improvement.

The backup light in the GEN 1 was a single light down in the bumper for European compliance.  There are now two normally placed backup lights in the GEN 2.  

Surprisingly, all of the rear lights including turn and taillights are still incandescent, I would have expected LEDs by now.  I like the swooping curves in the new model though.

The charge port no longer requires that you unlock it by pressing a button on the armrest, you just press it in to click release like a standard gas tank.  This requires a small behavior change because with the GEN 1 Volt one got use to automatically turning the power off and then pressing the button to open the charge port when coming home to connect it to your home charger.  Now you just turn off the vehicle then step outside and click open the port and connect the charge plug.

I like the chrome detailing on the door handles and note that the mechanical key slot has been moved to the bottom surface where it is not visible, and the key must be inserted vertically into the concealed slot in the absence of a functioning remote. 

The key can be completely removed from the keyfob in the new design - The GEN 1 keyfob key flipped out like a switchblade.

I had replaced the original factory wire antenna with a Stubby Antenna because it stuck up too high when I used my Rhino Racks to carry my canoe.  The new shark fin style antenna is a nice design refinement and also stays low enough to stay below the roof rack.

 Interior

The most noticeable difference in the 2017 model is the interior.  Everything has changed  on the dashboard.

GM engineers wisely decided to remove the "sexy" center console with touch activated buttons and went with a more contemporary styled user interface with separate manual climate controls and a touchscreen above.  It was far too easy to accidentally bump one of those pretty touch buttons on the old white center console.

power outlet and 2 USB inputs for media
plus a 3.5 mm audio input jack

Some of the  the features I have come to enjoy already include the Wi-Fi hotspot, and voice command for the entertainment system.  For instance I can press a button on the screen to enable voice-recognition and then simply say: "play Adele 25" and it will begin playing the first song on the album.  I have plugged in a thumb drive with all of my favorite music to one of the two USB jacks in a small lighted cubby in front of the shifter.  There is a slot to the right of the shifter for a phone or music player, I leave my phone there whenever I'm driving both to charge it and for Android Auto navigation.  The Android system puts live Google maps on the center console screen.  It also allows hands free phone and texting by voice.

 

A major improvement is the re-positioning of the POWER and MODE buttons.  More than one driver has inadvertently turned off their vehicle while driving because they intended to change modes (normal, sport, mountain) but hit the POWER button accidentally in the Gen 1.  I had a terrifying experience at night doing just that at high speed on a two-lane blacktop.  Now the power button is logically located near where an ignition key would be in a conventional vehicle, while the MODE button is down near the shifter where it should be.

The shifter location and layout now make a lot more sense with the parking brake located at the left, hazard lights at lower left, and MODE and TRACTION control buttons at the bottom.  I never understood  the strange placement of these controls in the GEN 1 design.

The new armrest controls slope towards the driver, making them more accessible.  And the gas filler release button is now placed in a much more visible location.  In the Gen 1 it was hidden from view.

Above the mirror, the OnStar controls have been moved forward and simplified.  The large black button in the center of the GEN 1 image on the left was the traction control button.  A very odd place for it, and it makes perfect sense that they would move it down next to the shifter.

The new keyfob is slightly sexier and the same remote control features have been retained.  If you press the lock button briefly and then press and hold the power button for 3+ seconds, you can power up the vehicle for 10 minutes and it will utilize the last temperature setting of the climate control system to heat or cool the vehicle as needed.  The substantial difference in the GEN 2 model is that the heater is much more effective.  On recent days when temperatures dropped below 0°F, I was able to preheat the vehicle for 10 minutes and get into a comfortably warm car with a cabin temperature around 70°F.  The GEN 1 heating system was lame by comparison.

The rear seats now include a center seat with a fold-down armrest. rather than two separate seats.  It functions more like a bench seat with a 60/40 split fold-down.  While the center seat would not be comfortable for anyone other than a child, I'm sure it adds some value to those with children.

The rear cargo area is much the same, except for the gap between the seats which was convenient for loading 8 foot lengths of lumber for me.  Yes, you can fit 8 foot 2X4s inside the vehicle by sliding them all the way into the front passenger foot well.

With the rear seats folded down  one notices the absence of the window in the rear hatch reducing visibility even more.

Due to the reduced visibility, GM have wisely incorporated a rear camera in the base model.  Previously this option was only available as an upgrade, but without the rear window it is now essential.  And notice that it shows guidelines indicating where the vehicle will be as you backup - they interactively curve as you turn the steering wheel.  I'm sure that children, dogs, and toys will be much safer now.  The camera is located just above the rear license plate.  In rainy weather I make a point of wiping off the lens before getting in the vehicle as it gets covered in road grime.

The GEN 1 charge cord was originally stored under the rear hatch, but I never left it there because it was too inaccessible.  The new cord storage location is more readily accessible, but there is nothing to wrap the cord around, so it is a loose 20 foot cable which becomes awkward to handle in snow and bad weather.  I think I prefer the original charge cord, but in both vehicles I just leave the cord out in the rear rather than bothering to stow it.

Everything under the hood has changed completely.  The large orange high voltage wires to the electric motor are tucked inside somewhere, and I hear that the new four-cylinder gas generator engine is smaller and lighter.  But it's all black box stuff.  There be magic!

Overall I am thoroughly impressed.  It seems that GM were paying attention to all of the observations, pet peeves, and complaints about the original design.  They totally got it right this time!

Too bad they stopped making this amazing vehicle in March 2019.

A nice piece of ash - made into a bowl

Apple wood bowls

 One of my hobbies (some would say obsessions) is wood turning.  In particular I like to make bowls from trees cut in my neighborhood or from logs that my friends bring me.  I sell some of these bowls in local craft galleries, and give others as gifts.  The bowls above came from an old apple tree that blew down in a storm back in the spring and I have been mining the wood for months.  Fruit wood tends to be very attractive and colorful.

 Here's a time-lapse video showing the process I use to make a small bowl from Apple wood (click the image to see it on YouTube):

Making a bowl from fresh-cut apple wood

 A few months ago a crew working for the utility company came through the area cutting trees back from the power lines and my friend and neighbor John noticed that they had cut down a substantial ash tree that was around 14 inch diameter at the base.  He "rescued"  the trunk and cut it up so that he and I could make bowls from it.  He offered me a piece that he had cut into a cylinder for me as a "bowl blank".  I got to work on it this weekend and it took me around three hours on the lathe to make into a nice salad bowl that measures around 9 inch diameter.  It is fairly hefty at over 1 lb. 6 oz., and the grain pattern is quite lovely.  It is finished with mineral oil that needs to be reapplied as the wood dries out.

9" diameter Ash bowl

I always sign each piece and identify the wood it was made from.

 It is surprising the amount of shavings that come from a single bowl like this, there was enough to fill up 3 - 5 gallon buckets.  I let it dry on my work shop floor for a while and then store it for use as kindling for my wood stove.

gallons of wood shavings from a single bowl

If anyone wants this beautiful bowl - or one like it, I sell them for $7/inch diameter - so a 5" bowl = $35.  Email me if you're interested.

Installing a 245 W solar panel on my house

The solar array I have installed on my barn workshop currently consists of 31 solar panels all using Enphase micro-inverters.  The original batch of panels were only 175 W and cost me over $4/Watt in 2009, solar panel prices are now down to around $.50/watt.  I have been eyeing a spot on the south facing wall of my house for years and when my friend Paul Kando generously offered to sell me a 245 W Schuco solar panel that he did not need for $100, I jumped at the chance.  Paul has been involved in renewable energy since the 1970s and is very active raising consciousness about renewable energy here in Maine.

I purchased an Enphase M250 microinverter (pictured in the image above mounted to the back of the solar panel) and then bolted some angle brackets to the panel to create a wall mounting system.  I gave a great deal of thought on how to install this panel safely and called in my friends and neighbor to help install it.  Thanks to my careful planning the installation took less than an hour and went like clockwork.

We got 2 very long ladders up and then mounted 4 brackets I had made to the wall.  I made a wooden jig that to ensure they were spaced correctly.  Then we hauled the panel up by dropping a rope from the attic window and secured the top of the panel with two bolts.  We were able to push the bottom edge of the panel out from the second floor bedroom window with a long board that I notched at the end for the purpose.  This made it easier for the two guys on the ladder to bolt on the struts that hold the panel out at an angle of around 39° from the wall.  I chose this angle to optimize winter performance (we are at 44° latitude here in Maine).

Before the installation, I had pulled some 14/3 Romex from a junction box in the attic down to the breaker box in the basement.  I added a 15 amp 240 V dual breaker for the solar panel.  The following morning at around 10:30 I clipped my Amp meter onto one of the wires and got a reading of .688 A on one of the lines - so that's 144 W.  

According to calculations using the online PVWatts calculator the annual energy value for this panel will be $42 a year.  So this panel will pay for itself in less than eight years by reducing my electric bill by around $2 to $5 a month.  Another way of looking at it is that each month this panel will provide enough energy to drive my Chevy Volt electric vehicle roughly 30-70 miles depending on the time of year.
 
My costs were relatively minimal:
$100 Schuco MPE 245 solar panel
$144 Enphase M250 micro inverter
$29  Enphase Engage cable
$20  Enphase M215 branch Terminator 
$20  30ft 14/3 Romex wire (run to the breaker box)
$313 TOTAL

The other advantage of installing this panel above my bedroom windows is that it will provide shade during the summer.  I do use a small window air conditioner occasionally in July and August and this should reduce the need to use that a little.

Many thanks to my neighbors and friends who are all energy mavens:
John Rogers, experienced home builder and fine furniture maker.
Topher Belknap, home energy auditor and building efficiency expert.
Al Heath, experienced home builder and energy auditor.
We all had a lot of fun installing this panel and I could not have done this without their help.

Update a week later

I did want some way to monitor power output and decided to install a small energy meter above the circuit breaker box in the basement.  This meter only costs $25 (available from MPJA) and I mounted it in a plastic box for another $10 or so.

It shows instantaneous Watts on the lower left corner and cumulative Watt hours on the lower right corner.  I plan to log the kilowatt hours weekly so that I can track performance of this single panel.  If anything should go wrong, I would certainly notice a lack of performance by the end of the week.  Here's a photo of it mounted above my circuit breaker box

clearing a tree that was shading my solar collectors and satellite dish

When a tree becomes inconvenient, it must go!  Case in point is a pine tree near my house that had been partly shading my solar collectors for the hot water for my home in the afternoon.  I was willing to tolerate that, but eventually it grew high enough to block my Dish satellite so that I was losing HD signals.  Two strikes and it was out!

Offending Pine tree on the left

You can see the offending tree on the left.  It is concealing the satellite dish to the left of the dormer window on the left side of the house, and the solar collectors are below the second floor windows towards the right.

Trunks down and partly bucked

So I called my neighbor John who is always happy to help me cut down a tree and he came over with his pickup, chainsaw, length of chain and steel rope to tension the tree and we got to work.  It took some careful strategy to tie a cable from the tree to John's pickup so we could haul it in the right direction as it came down.  There were two large main branches, one went to the left, and the other to the right and down slope.  They both landed pretty much where we wanted them.

We hauled off all the branches to my burn pile and lit that off while we were cutting up the trunk.

Burn pile before

Pine needles burn very quickly so the fire did not need a lot of tending and maintenance, although it was somewhat smoky.  There's nothing like the smell of wood smoke in the fall.

Burn pile almost done.

We cut the trunk into firewood lengths and I have stacked it in the backyard to season for a few years before I split it.  Pine wood has so much pitch that it takes a long time to dry out.  It's not a good idea to burn unseasoned pine in the wood stove because it creates a lot of creosote buildup in the chimney.  That creosote can create a chimney fire and burn down your house.  I get my chimneys cleaned every year or two just to be safe.

Tree stump and stacked firewood

Now the tree is down, my satellite dish has a clear line of sight to the HD satellite, and I'm getting better performance from my solar collectors.  I guess you could say I am back in hot water!

A clear line of sight for my solar and satellite

While I have contributed a substantial amount of carbon to the atmosphere by burning the tree, I see it as just shortening the carbon cycle.  The tree would eventually have died and rotted, releasing carbon back into the atmosphere.   I am sure the equation does not pencil out optimally, but by gaining more free solar energy, it probably nets out.

Making crabapple butter and jelly

I have a large crabapple tree in my yard that can yield up to 70 pounds of ripe crab apples.  I try to use as much of the fruit as I can to make crabapple butter and jelly.  It is tasty stuff, and I often sell jars of it to my airbnb guests.

I begin by laying out a large tarp under the tree and then shake the branches vigorously using a long extendable pole with a hook on the end:

Then comes the process of sorting the good fruit from damaged or bug infested apples, here is my friend Alison helping me with that step:

This results in a bucket filled with good clean, ripe crabapples weighing up to 20 pounds:

In the kitchen I weigh out around 10 pounds of crabapples and cut the ends off each one and boil them in a large pot until they are mushy.  If I am making crabapple butter, the mush is strained through a press to eliminate seeds and skins etc.  Or, if I am making jelly, I dump it into a cheesecloth lined strainer to drain the juices out overnight:

The resulting juice or clarified mash is then boiled in a pot with an equal amount of sugar and additional spices like cinnamon, thyme, allspice etc.  I use raw sugar rather than refined white sugar:

Since crabapples have a fair amount of pectin in them, there is no need to add it in order to get the jelly or jam to set up.

The final step is canning in which the hot juice is poured into sterilized glass jars and set aside to cool:

10 pounds of crab apples will yield a dozen or so jars of butter, or eight or nine jars of jelly:

The whole process can take over six hours from shaking the tree to finished jam, but it's worth it!  I am often complimented on how tasty my jams and jellies are.

I try to make best use of all the natural resources available on my property.  My raised vegetable beds have yielded a good crop of sugar snap peas, cherry tomatoes, basil, rhubarb, and some other herbs and spices.  I also use responsible forestry management techniques to harvest trees from the woods behind my house for firewood to heat my workshop. (here is my blog post about that). 
 

Roof mounted solar panels cool inside the building

I was looking up at my solar panels on a very hot sunny day recently.  I noticed that they were shading the roof and wondered if they were having a cooling effect and thus reducing the air-conditioning load in my office below.  So I set up 4 temperature sensors connected to my data logger to look at a days worth of data on a clear sunny day when the ambient temperatures peaked at around 100°F in the shade.

Click image to enlarge

As you can see, the shaded roof temperature averaged about 10°F cooler than the exposed roof.  I expected the solar panel surface temperature to be significantly hotter, but it was only about 10°F above ambient.  I'm not certain that my methodology was perfect.  All I did was tape a sensor onto the back of the solar panel and secure the others to the roof with duct tape.  The ambient temperature sensor was in the shade away from the roof.

The take away here is that solar panels do have a cooling effect when covering an asphalt roof.  This is clearly an advantage when the rooms below that roof require air conditioning in the summer.

Another way to reduce air conditioning costs is to install a solar powered ventilation fan in the attic.

I installed a SunRise Solar Attic Fan many years ago and it reduced my attic temperature by up to 60°F.  These clever designs use a 10 W solar panel directly connected to a fan.  You can add a thermostat to ensure that it is not running when the attic is cool.

So one can definitely say that solar panels are cool!

Treating bug itch with technology

In my previous post, I reviewed small plug-in bug zappers that work very well at eliminating those few mosquitoes that get into my home.  Nonetheless, I get bitten fairly often while outside enjoying the beautiful Maine summers.  Years ago I read about a simple no-cost treatment for the itch and swelling of bug bites - you simply run the affected area under very hot water for as long as you can stand it.  Apparently this changes the composition of the histamine chemistry in your body.  I have used this technique for years and it is extremely effective at removing the itch and swelling almost immediately.  The only problem is when I get bit on a part of my body that doesn't lend itself to being placed under a faucet.

The solution is to use a device that can concentrate localized heat right on the bite.  It turns out there are a number of products on the market that do just that.  The Therapik Mosquito Bite Reliever is a small, affordable battery-powered device that works extremely well in my experience.  (Click here to purchase on Amazon - As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.)

Therapik Mosquito Bite Reliever

This cool (hot!) device looks like a weapon from Star Trek the TV series.  One simply holds the red circle against the bite while holding down the button.  

A bright light comes on inside that quickly heats up the affected area.  The suggested hold time is around 20 to 30 seconds or to the point where the pain becomes unpleasant.  Some people make the mistake of turning off/removing the device as soon as they feel some heat which is typically within five seconds or so.  But it is important to maintain a connection long enough that the affected area is thoroughly heated up to the point of discomfort.

applying heat for 20 seconds or so

The Therapik operates from a single 9 V battery that seems to last a long time.

I read a German clinical study of a similar (but more expensive) product in which they concluded: "Locally administered, concentrated heat, which was recognized by the patients as a very short and targeted induction of almost painful high temperature on the skin, led to a fast improvement of ... swelling, pruritus (itching), and pain ... symptoms.  Compared with alternatives of pruritus and pain treatment after insect bites/stings, (it) seems to be the fastest treatment option already available."

I could not agree more.  So yes, this product (and ones like it) are the real deal.

Eliminating mosquitozzzzz in the home

Every now and then a male mosquito will find its way through my window screens or front door and into my home.  Of course that sound is extremely annoying, but it's the females that don't make so much sound that I also worry about because of the diseases they can carry.  Over the years, I have experimented with a variety of solutions and currently use a large 40 Watt zapper (Flow Tron BK-15D) that I run on a timer at night out in the backyard.  While it is very effective at reducing the outdoor population, some do get inside.  I had been using a smaller AC powered one in my front hallway that zaps them before they can get too far.  The only drawback to that relatively large zapper was the sound it makes inside the home. While the occasional ZAP was gratifying, it could often be annoying.  Unfortunately, that unit failed recently so I started researching other options.

What I found is that there are a number of simple, small, ultra-low power devices that plug into an electric outlet and consume a minuscule amount of power while solving the problem handily.  This model is no longer available, but similar ones are available.  (Click here to purchase on Amazon - As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.)

Zapper with 100% recyclable cardboard packaging

I was particularly impressed that the product is packaged in a simple recyclable cardboard box.  The only instructions are on the back and were clearly translated from another language with such amusing lines as: "LED lights glow to attract mosquitoes: stimulate airs, emit violet light to attract mosquitoes into the hood."

When plugged in, 2 small ultraviolet LEDs come on to attract bugs to the electrode grid inside where they die a quick and quiet death.  No loud zapping!  This subtle purple light can also serve as a modest nightlight.

works as a nightlight

The Manufacturer suggests you to take it apart (three screws on the back) and clean up the electrodes when they catch a lot of bugs.  Here's what it looks like inside.

Remove three screws to open it up for cleaning.

I ran some electrical tests on the device to see how much power it consumes and found that it draws 3.2 mA (3.8 W).  This means that it will only add about 27 cents to your monthly bill (assuming 10 cents/kWh).  So for the energy conscious, this is not a big concern.  

I also tested it by inserting a screwdriver (holding the insulated handle carefully) to short out the electric grid and it did produce some substantial sparks.  For this reason it would be wise to keep this away from young children.

To give the device a rigorous test, I plugged it into an outside outlet for a couple of nights and it caught quite a number of bugs.

bug catch after two nights outdoors - click image to enlarge

I have deployed these clever devices in my kitchen, living room, and bedroom and I am confident they will catch the occasional mosquito that gets into my home.  I also find them to serve as a pleasant night light. 

As someone who designs electronic products for living, I would be very proud of this design.

There are quite a variety of similar devices on the market, including a very clever version that screws into a lamp socket and incorporates an LED light. (Click here to purchase on Amazon - As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.)

Mosquito Light Bulb Bug Zapper

I did not have a suitable location in my home for this type of lamp, but would seriously consider it for laundry/utility rooms and basements etc.  Apparently the bug zapper remains on when the LED light is off consuming around 3 W, while the LED lamp uses around 10 W.  These devices seem to get very good reviews on Amazon and there are many very good deals on them if you look carefully.

I don't think these devices should be confused with heavy-duty bug zappers.  They are really designed for the occasional incursion so should not be used in the same way as a larger zapper.  I would definitely not recommend them for outdoor spaces other than small screened in porches.

Once you do get bit, there is an amazing techno fix that cures the itch and pain almost immediately.  See my next blog post for a review of The Therapik Mosquito Bite Reliever

Calculating energy cost of lamps and appliances

Conserving energy benefits the planet, while also conserving costs.  With this in mind it is helpful to be able to calculate how much money one saves by replacing an inefficient appliance or lamp with an energy efficient one.  For this example we will look at replacing an old 100 Watt incandescent lamp (which are being phased out around the world) with an equivalent 13Watt 800 Lumen CFL (Compact Florescent Lamp) and another equivalent brightness 10W LED lamp.

First, let's review the three salient electrical properties we are looking at here.  Volts which for the sake of this discussion is the available Voltage at a standard electrical outlet in the US which is 120 V.  Amps is the amount of current, and Watts is the product of Volts and Amps (W = V x A).

13W 800 Lumen CFL

In order to calculate cost, we first need to figure out how much power we will be billed for on a monthly basis.  Electrical power is billed by the kilowatt hour (kWh) which means 1000 W per hour.  Or another way of looking at this would be the equivalent of a 1000 W heater turned on for one hour.  The average cost per kWh in the US is approximately $.10, however that rate varies significantly from state to state and region to region.  Here in Maine we are paying approximately $.15/kWh.  It is also worth noting that the percentage of renewable energy sourced electricity varies significantly.  In New England we have the RGGI (Regional Green house Gas Initiative) that mandates a minimum amount of renewably sourced electrical power.  In Maine about 30% or our power is renewable sourced much of which comes from Canadian hydro, with the remainder sourced from biomass, wind, and solar in-state.

So let's start with an old-fashioned 100 W light bulb and assume that it is on in your living room for 6 hours a day.  To calculate how many Watt hours (Wh) are used per day we simply multiply:

100 Watts X 6 hours = 600 Wh

Which can be expressed as .6 kWh
Since we are billed by the month, we can multiply this by 30 to determine how many kilowatt hours per month we will be billed for:

.6kWh X 30days = 18kWh/month

To determine our monthly cost for this lightbulb, we simply multiply by the electric rate, so let's assume the US average of $.10:

18kWh X $.10 = $1.80/month

That doesn't look too bad does it?  But if you run the math for an energy efficient compact fluorescent lamp you get the following:

13W X 6hrs = 78Wh

.078kWh X 30 days = 2.34kWh/month

2.34kWh X $.10 = $.23/month

So by replacing that old style lamp with a compact fluorescent you would be saving $1.57 every month while also reducing fossil fuel emissions required to generate power for this electricity.  If you do the math for a 10 W LED lamp it comes out at $.18 per month with a net savings of $1.62 every month.  These lamps are so inexpensive now that you will recoup the investment within 5 months and since LED lamps last significantly longer than incandescent lamps it is a gift that keeps giving both to your wallet and to the planet.  Also, LED lamps contain no mercury.

9.99W 800 Lumen LED lamp

If like me, you have been using CFLs for years and are now in the process of upgrading to slightly more efficient LED lamps, please be sure to recycle the CFLs responsibly since they contain an average of about 4mg of mercury.  Lowe's stores have bins where you can return CFL's and also rechargeable batteries and plastic bags right next to their returns counter.

Recycling bins at Lowe's - next ro returns counter

So next time you go shopping for any electrical device from a lightbulb to an appliance.  You should start by looking at the label on the appliance you are replacing to see how much power it uses and do the math to figure out what it is costing you now and how much energy the new one will save.  If the nameplate on your appliance only shows the power in Amps, then just multiply it by 120 V to get Watts.  

Newer appliances are often more efficient.  For instance, it is generally assumed that if your refrigerator was made before 2000 that newer ones will be significantly more efficient.  So you will not only be saving money, you will also be doing the planet a favor by reducing CO2 emissions from the fossil fuels used to generate electricity.